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Bosphorus Bridge
in Istanbul, connecting Europe (left) and Asia
(right)
Istanbul (Turkish:
İstanbul;
historically Byzantium and later
Constantinople; see the other names of
Istanbul) is the largest city of Turkey, the
largest city proper and second largest
metropolitan area in Europe, and the fourth
largest city proper in the world. The city
covers 27 districts of the Istanbul province. It
is located on the Bosphorus Strait and
encompasses the natural harbor known as the
Golden Horn, in the northwest of the country. It
extends both on the Europe (Thrace) and on the
Asia (Anatolia) side of the Bosphorus, and is
thereby the only metropolis in the world which
is situated on two continents. In its long
history, Istanbul served as the capital city of
the Roman Empire (330–395), the East Roman
(Byzantine) Empire (395–1204 and 1261–1453), the
Latin Empire (1204–1261), and the Ottoman Empire
(1453–1922). The city was chosen as joint
European Capital of Culture for 2010. The
historic areas of Istanbul were added to the
UNESCO World Heritage List in 1985.
In 2008, during the construction works of the
Yenikapı subway station and the Marmaray tunnel
at the historic peninsula on the European side,
a previously unknown Neolithic settlement dating
from circa 6500 BC has been discovered. The
first human settlement on the Anatolian side,
the Fikirtepe mound, is from the Copper Age
period, with artifacts dating from 5500–3500 BC.
In nearby Kadıköy (Chalcedon) a port
settlement dating back to the Phoenicians has
been discovered. Cape Moda in Chalcedon was the
first location which the Greek settlers from
Megara chose to colonize in 685 BC, prior to
colonizing Byzantion on the European side of the
Bosphorus under the command of King Byzas in 667
BC. Byzantion was established on the site of an
ancient port settlement named Lygos,
founded by Thracian tribes between the 13th and
11th centuries BC, along with the neighbouring
Semistra,
of which Plinius had mentioned in his
historical accounts. Only a few walls and
substructures belonging to Lygos have survived
to date, near the Seraglio Point (Turkish:
Sarayburnu),
where the famous Topkapı Palace now stands.
During the period of Byzantion, the Acropolis
used to stand where the Topkapı Palace stands
today.
After siding with Pescennius Niger against
the victorious Roman emperor Septimius Severus,
the city was besieged by the Romans and suffered
extensive damage in 196 AD. Byzantium was
rebuilt by Severus and quickly regained its
previous prosperity, being temporarily renamed
as Augusta Antonina by the emperor, in
honor of his son.
The location of Byzantium attracted
Constantine I in 324 after a prophetic dream was
said to have identified the location of the
city; but the true reason behind this prophecy
was probably Constantine's final victory over
Licinius at the Battle of Chrysopolis (Üsküdar)
on the Bosphorus, on 18 September, 324, which
ended the civil war between the Roman
Co-Emperors, and brought an end to the final
vestiges of the Tetrarchy system, during which
Nicomedia (present-day İzmit, 100 km (62 mi)
east of Istanbul) was the most senior Roman
capital city. Byzantium (now renamed as Nova
Roma which eventually became
Constantinopolis, i.e. "The City of
Constantine") was officially proclaimed the new
capital of the Roman Empire six years later, in
330. Following the death of Theodosius I in 395
and the permanent partition of the Roman Empire
between his two sons, Constantinople became the
capital of the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire.
As well as being the centre of an imperial
dynasty, the unique position of Constantinople
at the centre of two continents made the city a
magnet for international commerce, culture and
diplomacy. The Byzantine Empire was distinctly
Greek in culture and became the centre of Greek
Orthodox Christianity, while its capital was
adorned with many magnificent churches,
including the Hagia Sophia, once the world's
largest cathedral.
The seat of the Patriarch of
Constantinople, spiritual leader of the Eastern
Orthodox Church, still remains in the Fener
(Greek: Phanar) district of Istanbul.
In 1204, the Fourth Crusade was launched to
capture Jerusalem, but had instead turned on
Constantinople, which was sacked and desecrated.
The city subsequently became the centre of the
Catholic Latin Empire, created by the crusaders
to replace the Orthodox Byzantine Empire, which
was divided into a number of splinter states, of
which the Empire of Nicaea was to recapture
Constantinople in 1261 under the command of
Michael VIII Palaeologus.
In the last decades of the Byzantine Empire,
the city had decayed as the Byzantine state
became increasingly isolated and financially
bankrupt, its population had dwindled to some
thirty or forty thousand people whilst large
sections remained uninhabited. Due to the ever
increasing inward turn the Byzantines took, many
facets of their surrounding empire were now
falling apart, leaving them vulnerable to
attack. Ottoman Turks began a strategy by which
they took selected towns and smaller cities over
time, enveloping Bursa in 1326, Nicomedia in
1337, Gallipoli in 1354, and finally Adrianople
in 1362. This essentially cut off Constantinople
from its main supply routes, strangling it
slowly.
On 29 May 1453, Sultan Mehmed II "the
Conqueror" captured Constantinople after a
53-day siege (during which the last
Roman/Byzantine emperor, Constantine XI, died
near the Porta Aurea while defending the city)
and proclaimed that Constantinople was now the
new capital of the Ottoman Empire. Sultan
Mehmed's first duty was to rejuvenate the city
economically, creating the Grand Bazaar and
inviting the fleeing Orthodox and Catholic
inhabitants to return. Captured prisoners were
freed to settle in the city whilst provincial
governors in Rumelia and Anatolia were ordered
to send four thousand families to settle in the
city, whether Muslim, Christian or Jew, to form
a unique cosmopolitan society. The Sultan also
endowed the city with various architectural
monuments, including the Topkapı Palace and the
Eyüp Sultan Mosque. Religious foundations were
established to fund the construction of grand
imperial mosques (such as the Fatih Mosque which
was built on the spot where the Church of the
Holy Apostles once stood), adjoined by their
associated schools, hospitals and public baths.
Suleiman the Magnificent's reign of the Ottoman
Empire from 1520 to 1566 was a period of great
artistic and architectural achievements. The
famous architect Sinan designed many mosques and
other grand buildings in the city, while Ottoman
arts of ceramics and calligraphy also
flourished.
When the Republic of Turkey was founded in 1923
by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the capital was moved
from Istanbul to Ankara. In the early years of
the republic, Istanbul was overlooked in favour
of the new capital. However, starting from the
late 1940s and early 1950s, Istanbul underwent
great structural change, as new public squares
(such as Taksim Square), boulevards and avenues
were constructed throughout the city; sometimes
at the expense of the demolition of many
historical buildings. Starting from the 1970s,
the population of Istanbul began to rapidly
increase, as people from Anatolia migrated to
the city in order to find employment in the many
new factories that were constructed at the
outskirts of the sprawling metropolis. This
sudden sharp rise in the city's population
caused a large demand for housing development,
and many previously outlying villages and
forests became engulfed into the greater
metropolitan area of Istanbul. Illegal
construction, combined with corner-cutting
methods, have accounted for the reason why 65%
of the buildings in Istanbul are built without
proper planning.
The concerns have increased due to the
serious nature of the Izmit earthquake of August
17, 1999.
Istanbul is
located in the north-west Marmara Region of
Turkey. It encloses the southern Bosphorus which
places the city on two continents—the western
portion of Istanbul is in Europe, while the
eastern portion is in Asia. The city boundaries
cover a surface area of 1,830.92 square
kilometres (707 sq mi), while the metropolitan
region, or the Province of Istanbul, covers
6,220 square kilometres (2,402 sq mi).



- The historic peninsula of old
Istanbul corresponds approximately to the
extent of Constantinople in the 15th
century; it comprises the districts of
Eminönü and Fatih. This area lies on the
southern shores of the Golden Horn, which
separates the old city center from the
northern and younger parts of the European
side. The historic peninsula ends with the
Theodosian Land Walls in the west. The
peninsula is surrounded by the Sea of
Marmara on the south and the entrance of the
Bosphorus on the east.
- North of the Golden Horn are the
historical Beyoğlu and Beşiktaş districts,
where the last Sultan's palace is located,
followed by a chain of former villages such
as Ortaköy and Bebek along the shores of the
Bosphorus. On both the European and Asian
sides of the Bosphorus, wealthy Istanbulites
built luxurious chalet mansions, called
yalı, which were used as summer
residences.
- The districts of Üsküdar and Kadıköy
which are located on the Asian side were
originally independent cities, like Beyoğlu
also used to be. Today they are full of
modern residential areas and business
districts, and are home to around one-third
of Istanbul's population.
To the west, to the
east and to the north, Istanbul extends far
beyond its historical quarters. The tallest
office and residential towers rise particularly
in the quarters of Levent, Etiler and Maslak on
the European side, and in the quarter of
Kozyatağı on the Asian side. Due to Istanbul's
exponential growth during the second half of the
20th century, a significant portion of the city
consists of gecekondus, a Turkish word created
in the 1940s meaning "built overnight" and
refers to the illegally constructed squatter
buildings that comprise entire neighborhoods and
run rampant in the outskirts of Turkey’s largest
cities; especially Istanbul, Ankara, İzmir, and
Bursa. According to the official definition
stated in the Gecekondus Act of 1966, these
neighborhoods are typically built on abandoned
land or on lands owned by others, without the
permission of the landowner or the Municipality,
and the construction methods do not follow the
official rules and regulations.
Architecture
Throughout its long
history, Istanbul has acquired a reputation for
being a cultural and ethnic melting pot. As a
result, there are many historical mosques,
churches, synagogues, palaces, castles and
towers to visit in the city. Some of these
historical structures, which draw millions to
the city every year, reflect the heart and soul
of Istanbul.
Ancient Greek
The famous Maiden's
(Leander's) Tower, one of the symbols of
Istanbul, was originally built by the ancient
Athenian general Alcibiades in 408 BC to control
the movements of the Persian ships in the
Bosphorus strait.
Roman
The most important
monuments of Roman architecture in the city
include the Column of Constantine (Turkish:
Çemberlitaş),
which was erected in 330 by Constantine the
Great for marking the declaration of the new
capital city of the Roman Empire. The
Mazulkemer Aqueduct, the Valens Aqueduct,
the Column of the Goths at the Seraglio
Point, the Milion which served for
calculating the distances between Constantinople
and other cities of the Roman Empire, and the
Hippodrome of Constantinople which was built
following the model of the Circus Maximus in
Rome are other Roman era structures in the city.
Construction of the Walls of Constantinople
began under Constantine the Great, who enlarged
the previously existing walls of Byzantium in
order to defend the new Roman capital city which
quickly grew following its proclamation as Nova
Roma. A new set of walls was built further west
during the reign of Theodosius II, and rebuilt
after an earthquake in 447 in their current
shape.
Byzantine
The early Byzantine
architecture followed the classical Roman model
of domes and arches, but further improved these
architectural concepts, as evidenced with the
Hagia Sophia, which is the largest structure on
Sultanahmet Square in the Eminönü district. The
Hagia Sophia was designed by Isidorus and
Anthemius as the third church to rise on this
location, between 532 and 537, following the
Nika riots (532) during which the second church
was destroyed (the first church, known as the
Megala Ekklessia ("Great Church") was
inaugurated by Constantius II in 360; the second
church was inaugurated by Theodosius II in 405,
while the third and current one was inaugurated
by Justinian in 537). The Church of Saints
Sergius and Bacchus (commonly known as the
Little Hagia Sophia), which was the first
church built by Justinian in Constantinople and
edificed between 527 and 536, had earlier
signaled such an improvement in the design of
domed buildings, which require complex solutions
for carrying the structure. The present-day
Hagia Irene (which was originally built by
Constantine in the 4th century, but was later
enlarged by Justinian in the 6th century) and
the Basilica Cistern are also from this period.
The most important
churches which were built after the Byzantines
recovered Constantinople from the Latin
Crusaders in 1261 include the Pammakaristos
Church and Chora Church. Also in this period,
the Genoese Podestà of Galata, Montano de
Marinis, built the Palazzo del Comune
(1316), an identical copy of the San Giorgio
Palace in Genoa, which still stands in ruins on
a parallel side street to the north of Bankalar
Caddesi (Banks Street) in Galata, together with
its adjacent buildings and numerous Genoese
houses from the early 1300s. The Genoese also
built the Galata Tower, which they named as
Christea Turris (Tower of Christ), at the
highest point of the citadel of Galata, in 1348.
Ottoman
The Ottoman Turks
built the Anadoluhisarı on the Asian side of the
Bosphorus in 1394, and the Rumelihisarı at the
opposite (European) shore, in 1452, a year
before the conquest of Constantinople. The main
purpose of these castles, armed with the long
range Balyemez (Faule Metze)
cannons, was to block the sea traffic of the
Bosphorus and prevent the support ships from the
Genoese colonies on the Black Sea ports, such as
Caffa, Sinop, and Amasra, from reaching
Constantinople and helping the Byzantines during
the Turkish siege of the city. The first mosque
on the European side of Istanbul was built
inside the Rumeli Castle in 1452.
Following the
Ottoman conquest of the city, Sultan Mehmed II
initiated a wide scale reconstruction plan,
which included the construction of grand
buildings such as the Topkapı Palace, Grand
Bazaar and the Yedikule (Seven Towers) Castle
which guarded the main entrance gate of the
city, the Porta Aurea (Golden Gate). The
first grand mosque which was built in the city
proper was the Eyüp Sultan Mosque in around
1459. The mosque was built on the site of the
grave of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, a companion of the
Prophet Muhammad who had died outside the land
walls of Constantinople (walls of Theodosius II)
in 669, during the early skirmishes which
preluded the Arab siege (674-678) to take the
city. The first imperial mosque inside the city
walls was the Fatih Mosque (1470) which was
built on the site of the Church of the Holy
Apostles, an important Byzantine church
originally edificed in the time of Constantine
the Great. Many other imperial mosques were
built in the following centuries, such as the
famous Süleymaniye Mosque (1557) which was
ordered by Suleiman the Magnificent and designed
by the great Ottoman architect Sinan, and the
famous Sultan Ahmet Mosque (1616) which is also
known as the Blue Mosque for the blue
tiles that adorn its interior. In the centuries
following Mehmed II, many new important
buildings, such as the Süleymaniye Mosque,
Sultanahmet Mosque, Yeni Mosque and numerous
others were constructed.
In the 18th and 19th
centuries, traditional Ottoman architectural
styles were gradually replaced by European
styles, such as the Baroque style interiors of
the Aynalıkavak Palace (1677–1679) and
Nuruosmaniye Mosque (1748–1755, the first
Baroque style mosque in the city, also famous
for its Baroque fountain), and the 18th century
Baroque additions to the Harem section of the
Topkapı Palace. Following the Tanzimat reforms
which effectively started Turkey's
Europeanization process in 1839, new palaces and
mosques were built in Neoclassical, Baroque and
Rococo styles, or a mixture of all three, such
as the Dolmabahçe Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace and
Ortaköy (Mecidiye) Mosque.
Starting from the
early 19th century, the areas around İstiklal
Avenue were filled with grandiose embassy
buildings belonging to prominent European
states, and rows of European (mostly
Neoclassical and later Art Nouveau) style
buildings started to appear on both flanks of
the avenue. Istanbul especially became a major
center of the Art Nouveau (Liberty) movement in
the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with
famous architects of this style like Raimondo
D'Aronco building many palaces and mansions in
the city proper and on the Princes' Islands. His
most important works in the city include several
buildings of the Yıldız Palace complex, and the
Botter House on İstiklal Avenue. The
famous Camondo Stairs on Bankalar Caddesi
(Banks Street) in Karaköy (Galata) is also a
beautiful example of Art Nouveau architecture.
Other important examples are the Hıdiv Kasr
(Khedive Palace) on the Asian side of the
Bosphorus, Flora Han in Sirkeci, and
Frej Apartman in the Şişhane quarter of
Beyoğlu.
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